Sew Chicago at Soutache

November’s meeting was held at Soutache Ribbons and Trim. Maili Powell, owner of Soutache, keeps her shop open late for us, lets us use her wonderful space, bring in food and drinks and in return we all have time to shop her exquisite collections of ribbons, laces, trim and buttons. I think almost everyone at this meeting ended the evening with a new treasure or two! Some of us left with a quite a bit moreūüôā

The program for this meeting was a roundtable discussion of what we each learned and took away from the ASG national meeting in July. It was very nice to have a couple months to see what things we actually learned, started to use and put into implementation.

Linda Anders showed off her new gored skirt that she started at conference and brought home and completed! Linda also gave us the rundown on her conference experience, one of her goals was to try out different sergers since she is looking to make a purchase in the next year.img_9142

Wendy Grossman, our NG leader, showed off the necklines that she developed in the day long Neckline class with Sarah Veblen. These are still in the mockup stage and we are all looking forward to seeing what great neckline design Wendy comes up with in her next garment.

To follow along with the neckline theme, Stephanie and Wendy discussed the 1/2 day Jennifer Stern neckline class that they took. This class took the basic boatneck neckline form The Tee pattern and changed it up in many ways. Both members have gone ahead and run with the neckline variations! You can see Stephanie’s variations in this blog post- Neckline Extravaganza. Jennifer Stern has a wonderful booklet available and a class on Pattern Review called Beyond the Boatneck.¬†If this was a class that interested you and you could not make it to the national conference then this video class is just what you need! Guest member, Monica Walker, from the northern Virginia chapter just happened to be ¬†wearing one of her versions of The Tee.¬†teeworkbookcover-1024x576

Wendy discussed techniques from a class with Vaughn Pierce who teaches Heirloom sewing techniques. She showed off a sample with baby piping! A very delicate and lovely application.

The last roundtable discussion was on a class taught by Janet Pray on waistband and zippers. Wendy brought in the samples completed in the class and Stephanie showed off the burrito waistband techniques used on the skirt she wore that evening.Both agreed that they really enjoyed this class. Janet took her time and made sure that everyone was moving along. The format was a discuss, demonstrate and then hands on for each step of the project.IMG_1860

This brings us right into the details of the Sewcial retreat in Novi, Michigan in February. There will be shopping at Haberman’s on Friday, a day long class with Janet Pray on Saturday and a day long class with Linda Lee on Sunday. Several members are signed up to go! Here is the link to The Sewcial February retreat if anyone is interested in joining.

Valerie Kopppenhaver, ASG Chicago chapter president, joined us for the evening to show off samples from the latest Chicago chapter workshop given by Gail Patrice Yellen. Gail Patrice Yellen had a friday evening trunk show and two half day hands-on workshops. The first workshop was on embellishments and the second was a take on bound buttonholes.

 

Sew and Tell-

Linda showed off the shirt she wore in the chapter fashion show, complete with trim from Soutache!

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Stephanie showed off a self drafted long wool princess seamed pencil skirt trimmed with chunky zippers and a Cynthia Guffey top trimmed with rayon ribbon from Soutache.

Special thank you to Maili Powell for keeping her store, Soutache, open quite late for us!

Reminder: December’s meeting is our annual Holiday Brunch on Saturday December 10th. Please check your inbox for the invite!

Sew Chicago walks the runway!

Thank you to all the Sew Chicago members that participated in the ASG Chicago chapter annual fashion show and luncheon.

We had 4 members, Wendy Grossman, Liz Houlihan, Linda Anders and Stephanie King walk the runway in the Sew Chicago Neighborhood group challenge of a buttoned down shirt. The criteria for the challenge was to make a button down shirt with collar and cuffs and at least one embellishment. The embellishment could be decorative topstitching, contrast fabric or actual embellished details such as trim or buttons.

The shirts ranged from casual to evening, fitted to relaxed and had a variety of details. Stephanie completed her look with a black layered skirt that had lovely movement as she walked.  Linda and Wendy wore pants they made from the Eureka! They Fit pattern from Fit for Art that Sarah Veblen fit on them in workshops.

The Chicago Chapter Fabric challenge had a large number of adult garments this year with a total of 8 tops and 5 or 6 entries for the accessories category. Due to the choice of fabric, a polyester silky, some of the other challenge sections were sparsely entered. Only one entry each for home decor, kids garments and doll clothing.

We had one entry from Sew Chicago from Stephanie King. It was Cynthia Guffey blouse t-2025 with ruched sleeves and neckline.

 

Sew Chicago generously donated a basket full of notions and 2 separate packages of batting for raffle giveaway prizes. Several other neighborhood groups also donated gift baskets for the raffle. Some of the best prizes were for fabric store gift cards! Linda Anders was the only one from our table to win a prize this year.

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Our chief instigator, Wendy Grossman looked beautiful as she kicked off the runway show in her Neighborhood group challenge from LAST year! We finally got to see Wendy’s Spoonflower dress walk the runway. She did such a wonderful job on this dress and we can all agree that it was worth the wait to see it!

Wendy also showed off her ‘leaf’ dress that she made over the summer for a rehearsal dinner party in NYC. The time she spent on her pattern placement really pays off with the perfectly effortless look of this dress. This one was a real stunner and the audience really enjoyed it.

Stephanie also took to the runway to share 2 of her favorite garments. The first to go down was the beautiful yellow jacket ensemble that she made for her granddaughter’s baptism this past June. The yellow fabric is just so vibrant¬†and full of life and those sleeves are works of art! The second garment was her ‘sneaker’ dress. This fabric was purchased in July at the ASG National meeting from Cutting Line Designs and before the end of the month this dress was completed. Yellow converse sneakers and yellow sunglasses complete this fun summertime look.

Thank you to all the Sew Chicago members that come out and supported the runway models and the Chicago chapter. Wendy Grossman, Liz Buckley-Geer, Linda Anders, MaryFran McMahon, Liz Houlihan, Danielle Schultz, Nicole Barker, Stephanie King and guest Melissa Janowicz.  We all had a lovely afternoon together! Next time I promise to get a group picture!

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Accessorize Me!

The October meeting at Sew Chicago was all about accessories. As designers and sewists we spend a lot of time thinking about the clothes that we make. Many decisions come into play such as choices about¬†color, silhouette, fabric type, construction details and more. As sewists we expect our garments to have a voice, to make a statement to the world and the people that we come in contact with. However, we ¬†often struggle with how to accessorize our beautifully sewn garments. We all have our go-to shoes and our go-to jewelry that we just automatically reach for, it’s time to break free from those habitual motions¬†and time to accessorize our garments thoughtfully.

If we just take a few extra minutes to reach outside our comfort zone you may just surprise yourself with what you can come up with! Try on different jewelry and shoes and just see how it looks. Ask a friend or a loved one their opinion or take a photo in the mirror of several choices, this allows you to take a step back and become an impartial viewer and look at the entire picture you are presenting not just focused in on a single area.

In our last meeting members were encouraged to bring the outfits that they would be wearing for the fashion show or any garment that they just wanted some help with accessorizing.

Wendy and I both brought our garments for the fashion show and we both ended up accessorizing differently than if we had been left to our own devices. Having a supportive group session to discuss and encourage was a perfect way to make accessory decisions. Thank you to everyone for your input.

October Sew and Tell:

We ended our meeting with a lively discussion started by Danielle. She posted the question to the group about what we all did with our old patterns, do we save them? or do we recycle them/give them away/throw them away? The group was pretty much split down the middle! Some of us keep them and save them for posterity and/or later use and some of us routinely get rid of old, unwanted or unused patterns. I personally, have a small house and do not have the room to store hundreds of patterns so I am not a saver and I also find too many patterns to be mentally cluttering. I believe Danielle said she has every pattern she has ever sewn up! What a great way to reminisce and to jog your memory on so many past projects. I can see merits to both saving and purging. Fell free to chime in and leave a comment on your opinion, should they stay or should they go?

We look forward to seeing everyone at the November meeting.

*Special date and place* Friday November 18th at Soutache.

Contemplating Coats

IMG_1979Yes, it’s been hot and humid this summer, but we Chicago gals know that won’t last for long. Before we know it, the weather reports will be talking about wind chill. Before that happens is the best time to assess our outerwear for fall and winter and decide whether we need to add to that part of our collection.

To help us plan, Linda walked us through a comprehensive list of practical considerations when constructing a wool coat that can stand up to long waits on an El platform in the worst of Chicago’s winter weather. In addition to warmth, her advice addressed durability so we won’t have to tackle this project again for several years. For greatest durability, Linda recommends sew-in interfacing. Coat designs with single button or no closure are great for those whose only exposure to the elements is the trip across a sidewalk from a limousine, but the rest of us in the Windy City need a full complement of buttons. And don’t forget to check the pocket size on your pattern. You might need to increase it so it can accommodate the warm gloves you’ll need to stow away.

Liz B. brought a gorgeous faux fur-trimmed coat she made and a copy of the Marfy pattern catalogue for us to browse beautiful coat patterns. It was enough to inspire even the most reluctant of us to try our hand at a coat.

Our handout collected information on Wool Melton from¬†More Fabric Savvy by Sandra Bettina and¬†Claire Shaeffer‚Äôs Fabric Sewing Guide, off-grain openings and steam shrinking sleeve caps from¬†Couture ‚Äď The Art of Fine Sewing by Roberta Carr and construction notes Linda took in a class with Marla Kazell. Another highly recommended resource is¬†Tailoring from the Singer Sewing Library.

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Sew & Tell included Mollie’s latest beautiful knitted sweater and a fun and practical hat she was inspired to sew after reading an entry on Rhonda Buss’ blog.

Liz B. showed us a great dress she made from fabric reclaimed from a vintage skirt. The “vintage” McCall’s pattern she used for this adorable dress was the pattern Mollie’s bridesmaids used. In the author’s opinion, it looks absolutely perfect to sew and wear today.

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Debbie wrapped up our August Sew & Tell with the latest dress she made from her favorite go-to pattern. Don’t you love the pocket detail?

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Happy Labor Day weekend to all.

ASG National Conference 2016

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Sunrise in Indianapolis

Indianapolis was the birthplace of the American Sewing Guild and it was the site for its 2016 Annual Conference. Four Sew Chicago members were there to meet sewing enthusiasts from all over the country, expand our knowledge of sewing and design and add to our collections of fabric, patterns, books and tools.

We arrived late Wednesday afternoon, just in time to meet Jennifer Stern-Hasemann of J. Stern Designs. Then it was off to dinner with Sarah Veblen and Monica Walker.

 

On Thursday, three of us took Sarah Veblen’s all-day workshop designing flattering necklines. Monica assisted Sarah in this class. Steph and Wendy were roommates, and we had to test out our jewel-necked mock-ups we brought for class.

Everyone left the workshop with multiple necklines to try out.

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Thursday evening was the opening of the vendor hall. The first booth was Anne St. Clair’s Needle Nook Fabrics. Anne had thoughtfully made up kits that are perfect for the lingerie sew-along we’re planning for the Sew Chicago sewing retreat in October.

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We also found must-have trims at Soutache Ribbons and Trim and fabric Рof course Рat Cutting Line Designs and Fabrications.

Fabrications is where we’re having our retreat in October, so we’ll have an opportunity to shop with them again very soon.¬†

Friday was the official opening of the “core conference.”

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Wendy and Liz started off with a hands-on class on Fine Finishes taught by Vaune Pierce. We made samples shown in Vaune’s article that was featured on the cover of this month’s Threads Magazine.

Stephanie took Fabulous Shirts and Blouses with Marla Kazell. Where the class started with a wonderful trunk show of the many ideas that you can make a single, well fitting shirt pattern into. The rest of the class was all about playing with ideas! The kit included quarter scale shirt patterns plus 3 different full scale hidden placket designs.

One of the highlights of Conference this year was the Keynote address by Linda Przbyszewski, Ph.D. (Professor P.), author of The Lost Art of Dress: The Women Who Once Made America Stylish. Those of us who have read the book have been inspired to make and wear day dresses. Her talk was delightful and the pictures she showed were chock full of inspiration. Autographed copies of our books and a picture with her was a must.

Steph & Wendy with Linda P

Friday afternoon saw several of us in the same class, Innovative Set-In Sleeves with Sarah Veblen.

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There were over 50 students in the class, and many who hadn’t worked with Sarah before were highly skeptical at the beginning of her lecture. As the class progressed, it was fun to watch Sarah win over the skeptics. The new designs Sarah presented gave us lots of new ideas to try out.

Friday night, we enjoyed a fabulous dinner at St. Elmo’s Restaurant, an Indianapolis tradition.

Bright and early Saturday morning, Stephanie and Wendy took Jen Stern-Hasmann’s class, Beyond the Boatneck, in which she led us through several neckline variations for her flattering knit top pattern.

Then it was off to an early lunch so we could change to model in the fashion show. It was a thrill to be in the line-up with so many nationally-recognized sewing educators and accomplished sewists from around the country. Stephanie and Wendy each modeled two ensembles. We’ll post pictures once they’re available.

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Two other members of the ASG Chicago Chapter were in the fashion show. Jeanette, who won the editor’s choice award at the show, and Lori, who modeled the ensemble that won her first place in the Illinois Make it With Wool contest.

On Sunday, Wendy and Stephanie capped off the Conference experience with an all-day workshop with Janet Pray learning the Islander Sewing System method for inserting a zipper and attaching a waistband, all without pins.

We headed home on Monday, but first stopped at The French Seam to buy more fabric.

We had four very full days of learning new things, stretching our creativity, adding to our fabric collections, meeting new people who love to sew as much as we do and hanging out with good friends. What more could we ask for?

Here’s a last look at the view of downtown Indianapolis from our hotel window.

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Border Prints Beyond Boho

We are all familiar with the traditional use of border prints in garments – place the border along the hem of a skirt or dress. At our June meeting, Sew Chicago explored other possibilities for using non-directional border prints and some tips about using these fabrics in garments.

Liz H. treated us to a trunk show of her border print creations, which included this silk charmeuse border print dress made from the Fashion in Harmony Magic Bias Dress pattern.

Here are some other pieces from her collection:

Wendy made a handout with inspiration pictures and tips that included some pictures of  auditioning border print placement on a dress form.

Steph was unable to attend, due to a scheduling conflict. But she provided an excellent blog post about summer pants she made from a lovely floral border print.

Linda brought some great border prints from her collection and several patterns that lend themselves to border prints. Thank you for shlepping all that to work so you could share it with us at our meeting, Linda!

For Sew and Tell our newest member, Liz B, wore an example of a directional border print in a skirt she redesigned from a thrift store find.

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Liz H. showed a knit and a woven sheath dress made from the same pattern.

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Debora showed the one purse she made for herself this year, and Linda showed her completed prototype of the Perfectly Fitted Shirt by the Cup-full by J. Stern Designs, which Jen fitted for Linda at ASG National Conference in St. Louis.

Speaking of ASG National Conference,¬†a group of Sew Chicago members will be there in July. It’s going to be tons of fun!

Finding New Homes for Fabric

For the second year in a row, Sew Chicago teamed up with the Sew Saturday neighborhood group in Elmhurst to exchange fabric, patterns and books.

Our format is informal. We separate out fabric that members are giving away and fabric to be sold. We ask that everyone label the fabric with essential information, including width, yardage and fabric content (if known).

Patterns and magazines are put in a separate room and everyone has the opportunity to go through them and take what they want. These are all free for the taking.  At the end of the day any patterns not claimed are then sent on to be donated or recycled.

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It’s nice to know that patterns and fabric that has been languishing in one person’s sewing¬†archives will have an opportunity to be used. It’s also great to catch up with our sewing buddies, some of whom we don’t see that often.

And, speaking of fabrics, there is a brand new online source of lovely fabrics out there. Louis Cutting of Cutting Line Designs has just revamped her web site and added online shopping for the fabulous fabrics she previously offered only at special events such as ASG National Conference and her hands-on workshops. There is lots to choose from. Check it out!

An In-Depth Look at Cuffs

Sew Chicago’s challenge for the Chicago ASG Chapter fashion show in October is to make a tailored shirt or shirt dress with a collar, cuffs, button placket and at least one embellishment.

We’ve already told you about the presentation Linda made on button plackets in April. For our March program, Steph provided us with a close look at shirt cuffs.

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Of course, the starting point is the pattern.

 

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Steph prepared a ton of samples to show us each step of the process.

The finished samples included a traditional cuff, a cuff with a continuous bias placket and some cool variations.

Steph also made a sample of a French cuff and a connected pair of buttons that can be used as a cufflink.

We look forward to seeing great tailored shirts in our chapter’s fall fashion show.

Sew Chicago supports Haute Couture Club of Chicago!

Members of Sew Chicago came out enforce to support the Haute Couture Club of Chicago annual fashion show held at the JW Marriott Hotel in Chicago on Sunday April 10th.

Several members of our Sew Chicago group are crossover members into Haute Couture Club of Chicago and participated in this years fashion show. We are very lucky to have such great sewing friends to come out and support each other!

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Susan and Wendy

Susan Gerbosi and Wendy Grossman not only participated in this years HCCC fashion show but they were also the co-chairs for the entire show! What a great job they did in putting together a wonderful treat for us all. The venue was beautiful, the food was quite enjoyable and what a treat to get to see 75 lovely garments walk the runway.

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Wendy

 

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Four of our regular members had garments for the runway this year. Wendy Grossman, Susan Gerbosi, Liz Houlihan and Steph King.

Those of us who walked the runway want to give a great warm thank you to the members of Sew Chicago that came out in support of not only us but for the Haute Couture Club of Chicago. Thank you to Linda Anders, Carolyn Angelopoulos, Nancy Snead, Elizabeth Smartt, Liz Cohen, Mary ALice Mayer, Mary Fran McMahon and Debbie Walker.

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Wendy and Susan with Sew Chicago friend Sarah Veblen. (center)

To learn more about the Haute Couture Club of Chicago please visit the website at http://hautecoutureclubchicago.com

Impressive Plackets!

The Sew Chicago April meeting was all about shirt plackets. The group continues to get ready for our button down shirt challenge for the Chicago ASG fashion show in the fall.

Member, Linda Anders, took us through a wealth of information on shirt front button plackets. She started by sharing her expertise from years of sewing on the different methods of creating and sewing plackets.SC4-16a

Several of these included:

  • sew-on plackets
  • cut-on plackets
  • hidden placket variations
  • fabric matching on plackets
  • dealing with sheer fabrics and prints
  • contrast plackets
  • tips for keeping finished plackets even lengths
  • tips for taming bias plackets
  • discussion on buttonhole direction

Along with an informative handout, Linda also brought sample shirts with different plackets to discuss and a large selection of patterns. Linda explained that while some of these patterns may be outdated or that she may never sew up some of them as designed that she keeps them because they have a wealth of different details that can be used to mix and match to create many different designs.

After we finished with all the technical discussions Linda had us get into a fun exercise! Imagine if the only top you were allowed to wear was a button up shirt. How many ways could you change it up so you would never get bored?

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Armed with copies of a basic shirt drawing, an easel and some markers Linda got to work showing us her ideas and then had us all get in on the brainstorming. What a great way to get the creative ideas flowing! Everyone had a great time coming up with different embellishment ideas, piping, placket shapes, use of asymmetry, fabric manipulation and so much more!

I know that I left friday evenings meeting with a head full of great ideas to jazz up my basic button up shirt.

 

 

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